A Nicaraguan two-toed sloth wakes up from a treetop nap, part of an Austin-Lehman Adventure that woke travelers up!  

“Welcome to Nicaragua, the land of lakes and volcanoes,” said Jesus, the guide picking me up at the Managua Airport January 25th. By day two of my one week trip, I had already decided it was the land of lakes, volcanoes and photographs.

Whether it was the steam surging from the volcanic ground as the earth continued to form, or an elegant bride and groom at the entrance of a 17th century cathedral trying to convince the little ring boy to get off the floor and stop his crying jag so they could proceed down the aisle; or a bicycle cruising by with a father peddling a woman nursing her child, or fireworks going off near a full moon, or monkeys swinging 30 feet through the air from one branch to another not far from a sleeping sloth— everywhere the landscapes and people-scapes seemed to invite photographs.

adventure in Nicaragua Sonne

Leon, Nicaragua in January          photographs by (c) Lisa TE Sonne

The words that Nicaragua formerly conjured (contras, revolutions, drugs) were replaced for me by cloud forests, revelations, and delights. I had said “yes” to Austin-Lehman Adventures’ inaugural trip in Nicaragua before the New York Times’ article touted the country as the #3 destination on the Bucket List of 46 places to go in 2013. So had half a dozen other curious spirits, all from New York. I am glad we experienced some of Nicaragua before it’s overrun with tourists.

Wonder-Full Week
A week in the course of decades of life is a small unit of time, yet it can be filled with so many experiences and people on a wonderful trip. Friendships clicked among fellow travelers (ages 36 to 57), with the ever-smiling knowledgeable guide Julio Flores and fun driver Juan Ramon, both from Oro Tours, the Nicaraguan ground team, with the warm local Nicaraguans and ex-pats met in the course of our days and nights, and with enthusiastic, intrepid Dan Austin, founder of Austin-Lehman Adventures who started researching the trip a year before and went along to see how he can make it even better  for future groups.

A howler monkey viewed from a horse while riding from jungle to beach at Morgan’s Rock, Nicaragua

My camera also clicked as I tried to capture some of the local life, beautiful smiles, and the participatory experiences offered on the trip from ash-boarding down a volcano, to getting covered in chocolate in a spa, and from milking a cow for a farmhouse breakfast to sipping Malbec in a private dining room with 1000 year-old artwork on the walls.

These initial images may give a visual sense of what visitors can enjoy in Central America’s largest country with the least dense population. For the sounds, smells, tastes and touches, Nicaragua awaits your own visit.

Adventure Photo Ops

In between leisurely meals, our adventures in Nicaragua for our Austin-Lehman week included:

Ash-boarding down a volcano, part of the Austin-Lehman Adventure in Nicaragua

*Ash-boarding down a volcano

Flying through the canopy in Nicaragua

*Zip-lining through jungle canopy

*Horseback riding under howler monkeys, up to promontories and on the beach

*Learning to roll a cigar at Dona Elba

*Kayaking in Lake Nicaragua to the private Zopango island for an organic lunch one day and in a Pacific mangrove estuary at sunset two days later.

*Savoring Morgan Rock’s private beach- releasing baby sea turtles in the morning and bogey boarding in the afternoon

*Enjoying a romantic carriage ride on cobblestone streets with empty neighborhoods (everyone was at the baseball stadium or watching the play offs on televisions)

*Walking the streets of Leon and Granada and witnessing daily life and milestone events- two weddings, a religious parade, and a gorgeous black carriage for a funeral with live musicians playing

*Milking a cow and gathering fresh eggs from the hens for a freshly made Nicaraguan farmhouse breakfast

*Buying original artwork from the artist at Granada’s international cultural center where violins are being made in the room next to painters filling canvases

*Being covered in real chocolate for a therapeutic massage and exfoliation spa treatment in the land where the source of chocolate (cacao beans) was the currency for hundreds of years.

Two locals in Nicaragua’s largest hammock, part of the Sonrisa Cafe where deaf and mute folks serve coffee, food and smiles as well as make beautiful hammocks. Granada, Nicaragau

*Lifting two little kids in and out of the largest hammock in Nicaragua at the innovative Sonrisa Cafe and Center where the deaf and mute make hammocks and serve coffee and food

*Hiking along dense fauna with occasional orchids, bromiliads, and heliconia to a narrow passage that the Chorotegas  believed was the source of the origin portal of the first people

After awhile, I felt very repetitive saying “Bueno” and “muy Bueno” and “excelente,” so often, so I asked our guide Julio, for a Spanish word that means great, wonderful, fantastic. He smiled and said ”pijudo.” The word was used many times since!

It was hard to leave Leon with its lion statues, and old history and my room at the pre-colonial La Perla with the 20 foot ceilings and breakfast in the fountain courtyard.

One of many horse drawn carriages in Granada, Nicaragua

It was hard to leave Granada staying at La Gran Frances with its interior open-roofed courtyard swimming pool, and location close to the Plaza which had its own rich life cycles from sunrise to sunrise.

And it was really hard to leave Morgan’s Rock Hacienda and Resort with the forest, jungles, beaches, people, and my spacious bungalow in the canopy that felt like a stylish screened tree house with the oceans’ waves below, and the suspension bridge walk to the main lodge where good food and infinity pool awaited. And then there are all the roads and hiking traills taken and those not taken-yet.

So I hope it is “Hasta La Vista” for me and my camera- that we will see again  “the land of lakes and volcanoes” and photographs, friendships and adventures.

-Lisa TE Sonne for Luxury Travel Mavens

Photographs by Lisa TE Sonne © all rights reserved. Thanks to Austin-Lehman Adventure for creating the trip and to Anna, Dan, Ed, Erik,  Juan, Julio, Ken, Mark, Peter, Ruth, and Troy for sharing and enriching the adventures and road trips..

Three generations make this Nicaraguan Pottery in Granada. It takes 22 days for each piece.

Paddleboarding in a lagoon near the Atlantic Ocean

“Don’t look at your feet. Look forward.” That was the main advice for our first foray at stand-up paddle boarding or “SUP.”

A few of us newbies gathered on a sandy patch near Aquadilla in northwestern Puerto Rico for a lesson from Aquatica Dive & Surf which also offers surfing, diving, and snorkeling.  Arcing in front of us lay a beautiful natural classroom and playground:  to the left,  the Atlantic Ocean, straight ahead, a placid lagoon; and to our right, an inviting, meandering, calm river,  flanked by lush jungle growth.

All the waters were warm compared to many other places in the continental US where  paddleboarding is taught, and the conditions were gentle for optimal beginner’s luck.

First attempts in the warm lagoon.

“It’s all about balance” was the other advice given as we pushed our long boards out into the lagoon. Guides were nearby to help steady us if we needed it. I got into a kneeling position in the middle of my board, placed the single paddle perpendicularly in front of me, and then used it to push myself first to squatting, then to standing position.

Wow! I was up on a paddle board! Things felt tippy at first, until I found my own sweet-spot on the board. From  then on,  it was relatively stable. For me,  paddling was easier than just standing still.

The long pole with a curved paddle at one end had been adjusted to my height, so that one hand could push down on the handle, while the other hand mid-pole pulled it toward me. Pushing and pulling the paddle in the right amounts is one form of balance. Being in the optimal position on the board is another.  Finding the body posture that works is also a key element of balance – not leaning back or forward too much, knees slightly bent. Most of that, the body seems to do automatically.

Lesson One: Look Ahead and Practice Balance

To control direction, you can back-paddle the way you might while kayaking. You can also switch the paddle over to the other side, which also means switching which hand is on top and which is in the middle of the paddle.

It was about the shortest learning curve of any new sport or recreation, I can remember– certainly easier than anything involving a ball or wheels.  Soon, we were heading up the river, first-time paddlers (ages ranging from the 20s to 60s) relishing the pleasure of something new.

Paddling offers solitude or good company.

We could be close enough for conversations or find our own niche in nature to listen to the wildlife and enjoy the jungle fauna.

It took just enough effort and attention that my mind was cleared of other worldly things. But not it did not require so much concentration that I couldn’t hum a spontaneous paddling tune, take photos with my waterproof camera, or just make up a jungle adventure.

Beautiful orange flowers floated. Coqui frogs added to the chorus. Occasionally a bird would swoop nearby. The river was so gentle,  it was encouraging for practicing different speeds and directions. The water was so warm that the idea of falling in was not intimidating.

We had seen stand-up paddle boarders out at sea where conditions can be much more challenging.  Those paddlers may also have the thrills of catching waves.  Kneeling or laying on long boards to catch waves goes way back in Hawaiian tradition.  The kind of recreational stand up paddle boarding or “SUP” we were learning has been growing in the last few decades with the advent of new board designs.

Boards left while paddlers hike.

Shore Leave

Our little quasi-intrepid group spread out and paddled under a bridge, and past a rope swing until we were gathered near a muddy shore where some branches hung low.  We helped each other ashore for a land hike.

The cleared jungle trail lead through thick growth to an early railroad tunnel in Puerto Rico, built in 1906. Naturally we felt compelled to walk through the dark passage until we saw the light again.

Paddling back to our original shore, I thought about how much this “lesson” had been like my first surfing lesson in Waikiki on Oahu- the warm waters,  gentle conditions and beautiful scenery there had made it an optimal place for a sense of fun and success the first time out. The same was true here for my first SUP chapter.

At  the end of our group journey, one person said she  thought it was boring as a sport. She was teased that she should try it in the ocean before reaching any conclusions. Two other people said they thought paddleboarding was more fun than kayaking. One because he likes being up above the water, the other because it uses legs as much as arms. A fourth person said she really loved it and would pursue it more when they got home.

All  were all glad we had tried a new way to enjoy Puerto Rico’s natural beauty and man-made features.

The Luxury Elements:

The view from the Eclipse Restaurant, part of the Villa Montana Beach Resort in Puerto Rico. The Resort can help arrange horseback riding on the beach, paddleboarding, and massages.

To make paddling in Puerto Rico a more luxurious experience, you could stay at Villa Montana Beach Resort, not far from the International airport in Aquadilla, (or find out what the Heliport sign is all about.)  The spacious villas can be your  home base for biking, horseback riding on the beach, tennis, golf, pool lounging, and tide-pooling.

The resort’s alfresco seaside restaurant, the Eclipse,  offers wonderful food and views, and delicious fuel to start your paddling day off with gusto.

Villa Montana Resort

To end your day with soothing luxury, arrange in advance for a private massage by the shore or in your own villa.

You could open the door to your place and be greeted by dozens of candles, sweet smells, and a talented masseuse ready to ease any muscles you challenged while enjoying paddle boarding and hiking. If you want romantic ambiance for yourself or mate, trails of rose petals can be arranged, too.

 

 

 

Some Practical Tips for PaddleBoarding:


*Wear water shoes with good support and grip (although some people prefer barefeet to help their balance.)

*Secure your glasses/sunglasses with a strap that floats

* If you want to wear a hat, make sure it has a strap

*Pre-spray bug spray on yourself,  and your hat

* Bring/borrow a waterproof bag for your camera and anything you want to keep dry

*Bring water with you to stay hydrated. Make sure the guide has  plenty before you start out.

* And, of course, check  with your doctor first, if you have any relevant medical conditions!

Thanks to Aquatica for a good first lesson.

Tips While There:

*Watch others to observe what works and what doesn’t

* Listen to the guides– they should know where it’s safe to get off near shore and where the submerged logs are,  etc.

*Ask for a “dry bag” if you want to bring your camera and keep it dry, then use it on the hike. Make sure you learn how to close the bag properly.

*There are some elastic ropes at the front of the board for securing things like the dry bag

*Ask what the plan for the paddle is. If you are going to stop and hike like we did, you might want to make sure you bring dry shoes and put them in a bag. (Fire ants like exposed feet.  Exposed feet usually don’t feel the same way about fire ants.)

*Remember to ask others to take your picture on the board, if you want a memento of your good time!

Puerto Rico- the Place!
Puerto Rico is a US territory,  so if you are a US citizen, you don’t need to worry about passports or customs or international cell phone charges, the way you would with many other Caribbean islands. US currency, and both English and Spanish prevail, and driving is on the right side of the road unlike many other Caribbean islands. You can fly into the capital of San Juan on the northeast of the island, and enjoy Old San Juan’s rich history, great restaurants, party night life, and wonderful museums. After a couple of days, drive west to the Isabella area of Puerto Rico, or you can fly straight to Aquadilla airport.

If you opt to take the east to west road trip, and are willing to go a little inland, two memorable attractions in Puerto Rico are the Arecibo Observatory, and the Rio Camuy Caves (787-898-3100.)

For more help planning a great trip, check out www.SeePuertoRico.com

What more can you share about Paddle Boarding or about Puerto Rico? Please add your comments below.    Viva the good life!

-Lisa TE Sonne for LuxuryTravelMavens

 Photographs © Lisa TE Sonne,