La Belle Epoque Dining & Saloon, provided by European Waterways
“French Soft and Creamy Cheeses” “French Goat Cheeses” “French Firm Cheeses” and “Wines of Burgundy.” These section headings are followed by sensual descriptions of the delectable and savory with room for my future tasting notes. The salivating begins before I have even left home!
Weeks ago, I received a beautiful European Waterways “Ship’s Log” book that includes maps, tasting lists, menus, and recipes for my anticipated “Classical Burgundy” luxury trip on the Le Belle Epoque. She is a “barge,” but with a sun deck, outdoor jacuzzi, library, 24/7 inclusive bar, and air conditioning, the wood-paneled, 12 passenger La Belle Epoque sounds more like a yacht to me. She is built specially though to travel the shallow canals, locks, and rivers.
When I think of barges, I think of the elaborate, royal court barges of past eras that I have read about, or the huge powerful container vehicles that ply the Hudson River and the Pacific coastline, and I think of how joyful my mother is describing what a great time she and her girlfriends had years ago when they went barging together for a week in Europe– one big, elegant, floating slumber party with their own chef.
Traveling through Burgundy with leisure and pleasure
Most of my girlfriends are still working and/or in active Mom mode, but I did find one who could take time to smell the cheeses with me for lots of bon appetit! She is a francophile, so it wasn’t hard to say Merci to France for having so many barge options, but it didn’t diminish the drooling over other possible destinations.
European Waterways offers European barging trips in
England —Thames River
France— (16 different trips on various canals and rivers)
Germany —Mosel River
Ireland —Shannon River
Italy —Venice and the Po Valley
Netherlands: Holland’s Rivers and Canals
Scotland —Caledonian Canal
France alone has 2,700 miles of navigable inland waterways. Many have rustic parallel pathways lined with tall poplar trees. Originally the trees were planted to shade the horses that gave the barges their horse power. Before the 20th century, barges were propelled by sails or pulled by horses or people.
Now the shore’s pathways or “tow paths” offer a wonderful way for barge guests to walk or bicycle between villages with their charming, slow moving, home-base in sight. A little healthy exercise might justify all those cheeses, wines and dishes prepared by the barge’s chef. I’ll put some sneakers in my suitcase (as well as pants with an expandable waistband for good-eating days.)
Bicycling and Barging the Burgundy
It also looks like my camera will get some good exercise– there’s the 11th century Abby, the village where they filmed Chocolat, and Rennaisance Chateau and gardens!
Here’s more from the itinerary as provided by the EUROPEAN WATERWAYS website :
LA BELLE EPOQUE – CLASSIC BURGUNDY CRUISE
Tanlay to Venarey les Laumes
Sunday, Day 1 Tanlay
Guests are met at the designated meeting point inParis and transferred to the barge moored in Tanlay. A full crew Welcome Aboard with champagne and canapés. After time to settle into your cabin you will enjoy your first dinner on board and introduction to Burgundy’s excellent cuisine.
Monday, Day 2 Tanlay to Lezinne
La Belle Epoque Cabin for barging on the Burgundy
Wake to the aromas of ground coffee and French patisseries, enjoy a leisurely breakfast and morning cruise to Lezinne with the opportunity to cycle or walk into the picturesque 16th Century village of Saint Vinemer. After lunch we visit the 16th century Renaissance-style Chateau de Tanlay, nestling serenely within this picturesque village and also the 18th century Fosse Dionne. Dinner on board.
Tuesday, Day 3 Lezinne to Ancy le Franc
After breakfast enjoy a lazy cruise up to Ancy le Franc with plenty of opportunity to wander or cycle ahead as the vessel ascends through the locks towards the beautiful 16th century Renaissance palace and gardens of Chateau d’Ancy le Franc. Lunch in a local auberge and then visit the vineyards and town of Chablis, dating back to Roman times. We enjoy a private wine tasting renowned for its Premier and Grand Cru wines popularized by Alexis Lichine in the 1950’s. Dinner on board.
Wednesday, Day 4 Ancy le Franc to Ravieres
Morning visit to medieval Noyers sur Serein to admire the local produce, colours and delights of the wonderful market, or to wander the town ramparts in this, one of the most beautiful villages in France. We return to the barge and enjoy a gentle afternoon cruise past grazing Charolais cattle to Ravieres followed by a visit to the 16th century Renaissance palace and gardens of Chateau d’Ancy le Franc. Dinner on board.
Thursday, Day 5 Ravieres to Montbard
The Abbaye de Fontenay,
Morning cruise, with excellent walking and cycling opportunities, to Montbard passing the Forges de Buffon. After lunch, we escort you to the exquisite World Heritage Unesco site of Abbayé de Fontenay founded by St Bernard in 1118. Representing a distinctive example of early Cistercian architecture and virtually intact, Fontenay allows an exceptional glimpse of early Cistercian life and industry with its peaceful gardens and ponds and fascinating cloisters, dormitories and scriptorium. Dinner on board.
Friday, Day 6 Montbard to Venarey les Laumes
Morning cruise through woodlands and rolling fields, with great towpath biking and walking opportunities, past the tiny canal side villages of Nogent, Courcelles and Les Granges. This afternoon we enjoy a stroll around the hilltop village of Flavigny sur Ozerain, where the film ‘Chocolat’ was located. On the way from the summit of Mt Auxois, we look at Alesia, the last battle site between the Gaulles and Romans that took place in 52 BC. Also time to enjoy the town of Semur-en-Auxois. Captain’s Farewell Dinner on board.
Saturday, Day 7 Venarey les Laumes
Disembark after breakfast and transfer back to Paris.
For some stories on the above trip, stay tuned for future Tuesday columns in Luxury Travel Mavens.
For additional options, check out Andrea Rotondo’s River Cruising Revolution?
-Lisa TE Sonne for Luxury Travel Mavens
Photos courtesy of European Waterways
Part Two: Barging and Biking In Burgundy
Short Video of the Luxury Barge
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