Traveling between the fjords and islands of Alaska’s Inside Passage, American Safari certainly lived up to its name last month for a luxe summer vacation that was cool in temperature and memory. Unlike African safaris, there were no lions or tigers here. But bears? Oh, my! Yes!

Whales? Yes! Minks? Yes! And otters, eagles, seals, moose, puffins and a myriad of other birds in spectacularly beautiful settings.

American Safari’s yacht, the Endeavour, carries up to 86 passengers and 35 crew who make sure the human wildlife is happy long before the happy hour. Life on this yacht features jacuzzis, massage rooms, a sauna, a well-stocked bar with creative cocktails of the day, and delicious surf, turf or vegetarian food options. Unpack once and settle in for wonder, and choices of adventure and relaxation.

The Endeavour also transports a small fleet of two kinds of kayaks for maneuvering in the rougher Pacific ocean or in the calmer inlets, as well as between icebergs. Paddling over to a luscious waterfall, we saw this bear munching on highly nutritious sedge grass. Soon the salmon will be running, and the bear will reach for the fish.

The wildlife came to us the first morning of the cruise as the Endeavour headed to the Glacier National Park. Humpback whales blew columns of spray, then headed for the yacht, rewarding the early risers. Several of us who showed up in the stern for the 6:30 yoga class stopped our own deep breathing to witness the beauties go under and along.

Another day while on shipboard, at a further distance, whales were in the front of the boat and on both sides. Photographers didn’t know where to turn. Here’s one image of a mother and baby breaching together.

Every morning and afternoon, passengers were offered choices of activities — usually different levels of hiking, kayaking or being taken out in Zodiac boats with a guide who knew how to seek animals.
At meals, people shared their experiences. One group got very close to a moose. Another had dozens of sea otters play near their kayaks. Others were thrilled by the eagle spottings—watching the majestic birds swoop down on the water and sometimes carry away a fish. There were those who looked in vain for Big Foot, and plots were even hatched to create a big foot. But no Yeti yet.

A new animal sighting for me came by surprise. The captain of our Zodiac pointed toward the high tide mark of an island where a patch of bubble kelp littered the ground. At least, that’s all I saw. Then people started to murmur quietly, but excitedly: “Oh how cute!” “There it is!”

Finally, the foot-long creature moved, and I followed the motion. A mink! She seemed curious about us, too, and would stop and stand up like a periscope to take a look.

So much about Alaska is big. We saw dozens of thousand-foot waterfalls, tons of whales (literally), and even other cruise ships 20 times larger than ours. But to see this little furry thing boldly staring at us was delightful.

Even the landscape is wildly dynamic. Long glaciers over a 100 feet high, crack loudly and calve, sending tons of ice splashing, making waves, and thrilling those of us who had been watching and waiting.

If you ask my husband about our trip, he would tell you about all the food and drink options onboard. (In fact, he intends to do just that in an upcoming guest-column.) To my friends who care about “wellness,” I describe a very healthy, happy journey. (Stay tuned for more on that, too.) But we both agree that it was the wildlife that really made this a truly American Safari.

—Lisa TE Sonne for Luxury Travel Mavens

–photos by ©Lisa TE Sonne

LuxuryTravelMavens-Sonne-Ink 48-GuppyLoveI took a photograph of a goldfish in a bowl on a purple yoga mat next to a 12-foot high window. In the background, a sweeping view of the Hudson River included the floating Intrepid Museum of Air, Space, and Sea —the moored aircraft carrier with the Enterprise Space Shuttle onboard. I was wearing a black and white Zebra-striped hotel robe pulled from the closet with a little card that said, “Go Wild.” Indeed! I clicked away gleefully with my camera—sailboats going by.

Welcome to Suite 1015 at Ink48, a Kimpton hotel on 11th Avenue near 48th Street. Our perch in this whimsical haven in the Hells’ Kitchen section of Manhattan has floor-to-ceiling windows stretched about 30 feet across, joining the bedroom and sitting area, as well as a corner bedroom window for some cityscape eye candy. We turned the bedroom’s actual flat-screen TV sideways, so we could watch the ships, barges, ferries, helicopters, and airplanes while sitting in bed­—real reality-programming featuring life on the Hudson River.

My husband Victor and I had flown three thousand miles to attend a June wedding and didn’t want the gorgeous newlyweds to be the only ones enjoying honeymoon-like romance. We stayed the first two nights of our trip lusciously renewing ourselves in The Pierre, a Taj Hotel with a memorable view of Central Park.

Now we wanted the luxury of a spectacular view of another Manhattan feature, and we wanted to try something with more playful vibes, not far from the theater district.  The bride and groom to be, had recommended Ink 48 on their wedding website to out of town guests as  “Located just steps from the Hudson River on Manhattan’s west side, this Kimpton Hotel offers boutique style with terrific skyline views from many rooms.”

Guppy Love , Gyms, and Spas—Oh, My!

Our cab pulled up to the hotel’s entrance, where doggie treats welcomed four-legged guests at the front door. Upon check-in, when it was revealed that we did not arrive with a treasured creature, “Guppy Love” was offered. A goldfish with bright orange rocks in the bowl was brought to our room to be our pet-away-from-home.Ink48 Canines are Welcome

My husband and I are both writers, so I liked the idea of staying in a converted printing house with a publishing motif. In the elevator, the non-guest floors are named after type fonts: Courier, Garamond, and Helvetica. The restaurant next to the lobby is named The Print. The rooftop bar, renowned for outstanding views, is called The Press.

The drink coasters in the room have a definition of white space on them: “… the area that does not carry any type or image.” Another guest instruction card explains that four-color process printing uses Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black to make all the other colors.

There are other creative touches (some of them for the context of the location and others typical of the Kimpton line of hotels). The back wall of the elevator is very tactile. I was told it was all horsehair, because the horses that pull carriages in Manhattan board close by. Ink48 offers afternoon wine and cheese gatherings for guests, sometimes with a visiting author.

The work-out gym has typical machines and bright colored hula-hoops you can take to your room. Our suite had a yoga mat and a card with yoga positions printed on it. It may be hard to get someone on the phone, but when you do, you can ask to borrow water bottles, work-out belts, and all kinds of goodies. You can also ask to borrow bikes for a ride along the nearby Hudson River. I imagined a real adventure of riding a little further over to nearby Broadway and Times Square

We never got to the cycling, cabernets, or hula hoops, but before checking out, I did indulge in a visit to the hotels’ soothing Ink Spa and a relaxing treatment called “Indelible Expressions.” The only stress was trying to decide which essential oil I wanted/needed (i.e., did I want to be de-toxed, relaxed, or energized?)

Spa Ink48 choices

Hmmm. Hard to choose. I may need a lot of practice with such questions in the future to hone my massage decision-making acumen. Jennifer suggested I smell each oil and select the one most appealing to me. Lavender won, and in that quiet space, her skilled fingers eclectically blended massage styles to tease away knots.

Best Luxury Memories

While getting increasingly relaxed, I re-enjoyed some of my other luxury memories of Ink48, now imprinted (can’t resist) on my brain:

* We invited two married Manhattan couples we love to come visit us. We showed them the suite and enjoyed drinks on the roof, where 360-degree views include the river scene and the lights of Times Square and the Chrysler building. The night air and lofty panorama were stunning.

The husband of each couple told me separately that he hoped someday to live in a high-rise place in New York with a “real view” like the ones we had at the hotel. In this city, that’s high praise, considering one couple lives in the historic Apthorpe, one of Manhattan’s most desired addresses, and the other lives in three floors of a classic Brownstone on the West Side, a fantasy home.

LuxuryTravelMavens Roof View from Ink48, Sonne

* My next luxury memory: The bathtub was actually deep! I could bend my knees and be immersed! And if I left the bathroom door open and edged to the side, I could see the Hudson and the Intrepid! And, the tub was big enough for two people. I can tell you empirically that this is true, and that for all the dirty things couples may like to do on romantic get away vacations (Like biking), getting clean together can be very romantic.

*Lying in bed, we had an expansive view of sky only. One day it was the thrills of seeing storm clouds battle it out, but it was our last morning I remember best. We watched clouds – the fluffy clouds of childhood memories and languid days, when time seemed infinite.

We played a Zen game. Pick a cloud and think about it drifting into separate pieces until it disappears. This actually works. We would each pick a separate cloud and focus on it and watch it dissipate until it was gone. Any worries we had also seemed to become smaller and just drift away and vanish as we laid in bed on our backs staring at the sky—comfortably sharing the wonders of nature in one of the world’s greatest cities.

Luxury indeed.

—Lisa TE Sonne for Luxury Travel Mavens

view of clouds from bed, Ink48

 

 

 

Snorkeling may be the easiest entry for traveling underwater — home to some of the greatest destinations, attractions, and wonders.  Snorkelers stay in the upper layer of water, where sunlight dances and the full array of colors are still visible for memories and photography.  Floating gently on the sea and peering down at nature’s life force in motion is soothing meditation, relaxing exploration, and privileged access.Scorpion Fish of La Paz, Mexico

I am passionate about scuba, small submersibles, and the emerging infrastructure of underwater tourism, but I would never give up the basic joy and beauty available through snorkeling.

Some of my favorite snorkeling memories are in the Sea of Cortez, the Galapagos, Palau and Papua New Guinea. Just getting to be there is a luxury – and then there’s snorkeling!

Baja’s Sea of Cortez

To see sea lion pups twist and twirl in a 360-degree aqua-ballet around you, head to the rookeries in the Sea of Cortez, “the world’s aquarium.” This UNESCO World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve is a long finger of water between the Mexican mainland and the skinny peninsula below California known as “Baja,”  The Sea of Cortez was made famous by writer-biologist John Steinbeck and oceanographer Jacques Cousteau.

North of Cabo San Lucas, and less than a two hour flight from Los Angeles, the city of La Paz (The Peace) is Baja’s historic and modern capital and a wonderful departure port for water lovers.

A luxurious way to enjoy the Isla Espiritu Sea Lion Colony is to indulge in an American Safari Baja Un-Cruise  for a week full of memorable wildlife opportunities with comforts for all your senses. After playful encounters with the big-eyed pups, the crew greets you with towels, drinks, and snacks, followed by hot showers or Jacuzzi soaks while looking for whales and dolphins, then a gourmet brunch.Sea Lions at Play

If you are enjoying La Paz and Baja from a land base, Fun Baja offers a delightful daytrip. I enjoyed the shady boat, international group of fellow snorkelers, and the fresh-fish lunch they made for us on a secluded cove of the island of Espiritu Santo.

Humans are the minority among the hundreds of barking and diving pups and parents in the sea lion colonies. The curious playful ones may even grab a fin.

Galapagos

The underwater wildlife of the Galapagos is as wondrous as the topside of the islands. The island group straddles the equator 600 miles from South America. Snorkeling is wonderful year round, although a wetsuit helps, since the cold Humboldt current sweeps down to this part of the Pacific to make for rich biodiversity.

Snorkelers can see swimming marine iguanas, fur sea lions, and even the famed Galapagos penguin! Penguins don’t normally live in the northern hemisphere, but the delightful Galapagos penguin is an exception.  After following the antics of sea lions and even a prowling reef shark, I lifted my head to get my bearings- and there was a little penguin debating whether to jump in the water!

Ecoventura’s one-week, ecofriendly “expedition cruises on 20 passenger yachts” island-hop to the highlights and are a great platform for snorkeling. Once the gear is fitted for you, including wetsuits, it’s “yours” for the week. Naturalists are onboard and underwater to help identify great creatures – blue-footed boobies on the trail, and schools of surrounding fish in the sea.

On one outstanding day, I saw large sea turtles in the morning and then an Ecoventura guide arranged for me to get close to Giant Tortoises on land in the afternoon.

Papua New Guinea

Cultural Diversity in Papua New GuineaPNG has some of the greatest cultural diversity on the planet – more than 600 languages are still spoken there. It’s hard to pull away from visits to tribal river cultures, shopping for the hand-carved masks displayed in working Spirit Houses, and witnessing the dances and festivals in the Highlands. But the hundreds of islands of Papua New Guinea, north of Australia, are surrounded by beguiling waters with their own alluring diversity.

The private South Pacific island of Lissenung resembles a sweet movie set – a paradise dollop you can walk around in an hour. Just off the Island of New Ireland in the Bismark Sea, the Lissenung Island Resort is set up for divers, with a thatched dining hall and hammocks hanging into the water, but I enjoyed some of the best snorkeling I can remember. A treasure found - to be photographed and returned.

The consistently warm waters and huge range of healthy corrals attracted fish of many colors to Lissenung, and I also enjoyed wonderful snorkeling off the North Coast of Madang. My souvenirs include photos of scorpion fish, corals and a memorable shell.

Trans Niugini Tours can help you plan your trip and indelible dips.

Palau

Stingless Jelly Fish

The Republic of Palau is an incredible Micronesian archipelago of  small tropical islands, touted as one of the top dive locations in the world. The snorkeling is also spectacular.

Hike inland on Eil Malk Island in Palau to the world-renowned “Jellyfish Lake,” where the pulsing orbs of jellyfish have evolved without the notorious stinging touch. Instead, snorkelers who brush against them feel a gentle softness. To get a sense of the other worldliness of their realm, you can see a video and piece I did for National Geographic’s Intelligent Travel.

The lake jellies are unique, but don’t miss the oceanic treasures either. Giant clams, colorful tropical fish, and Gorgonian corrals may be enjoyed by simply walking from your resort into the water with a mask.Japanese Zero on seabed off Palau

Palau has also declared itself a shark sanctuary to protect them from slaughter, so snorkelers may be treated to the sleek behavior of one of the food chains most intelligent creatures.

For wreck lovers, remnants of WWII Pacific battles litter the sea bottom, sometimes in shallow waters, like this Japanese Zero Plane.

More…

Still ahead, I am looking forward to sharing with readers of Luxury Travel Mavens great warm-water places to snorkel with whale sharks, the world’s largest fish, and with manatees, the mammal rumored to be mistaken for mermaids.

For more adventure, there’s night snorkeling to see the wonders of glowing bioluminescence or the swoops of manta rays, those glorious winged creatures called both angels and devil fish.

And for those who want to don a “dry suit,” unforgettable snorkeling awaits in Alaska.

—Lisa TE Sonne for Luxury Travel Mavens

All photos © Lisa TE Sonne except for jellyfish © Sharon Spence Lieb (travel writer/photographer)

 

When we peered out the window from the 36th floor, the long rectangular green of New York’s Central Park looked like a magic flying carpet ready to transport us anywhere. I asked my husband, Victor, “Where would you like to go?” We looked around our suite in the elegantly sumptuous Pierre Hotel – New York City, with Manhattan’s 5th Avenue at our feet, and decided we were quite content where we were.

Our feathered nest was of the highest quality down, in a hotel that breathed legacy guests (Jackie Kennedy, John Paul Getty), as well as Taj Hotel luxury. Already we understood why it was a Five Diamond Hotel (AAA 2012) and ranked as one of the top 100 hotels in the world.

The Pierre, A Taj Resort in New York City

The Pierre, A Taj Hotel in New York City (photo courtesy of Lisa TE Sonne)

Suddenly, the wedding we had eagerly flown across the country to attend seemed like a duty, a sacrifice of time from our cultured cocoon. But of course it wasn’t. We gathered with other guests from five continents at the Marina at 23rd Street to take a ferry across the East River to the Waterfront Restaurant in Long Island City.

The nuptials unfolded like a romantic movie. The young couple said their “I do’s” with the skyline of Manhattan behind them, and smiling and teary friends before them.

Wedding Couple at The Waterfront

The wedding couple at The Waterfront. (photo courtesy of Lisa TE Sonne)

Champagne, appetizers, and live music by pianist Lincoln Mayorga were a sunset interlude. After hours of delicious imbibing, dancing, and laughing, Victor and I were romantically primed to take the ferryboat under the stars, back to our fairytale niche in the Pierre.

It’s hard to imagine the bed being more comfortable. A little note from room service offered to supply alternative pillows of different contents (down, buckwheat, foam, feather) or shapes (body length, neck support). It wasn’t necessary. We were quite content in our high-thread repose.

There was also a lovely card showing the days highs and lows of temperature and the highs and lows of the last trading day on Wall Street. We had had no personal “lows,” so I focused on the card’s quote, “Dreams are only thoughts you didn’t have time to think about during the day.”

And now is the part of the story where we revert to the love scenes from movies of old—and turn off the light after a giddy kiss.

The City That Never Sleeps

Room Service at The Pierre, A Taj Resort in New York City

A delicious room service breakfast at The Pierre, A Taj Hotel in New York City. (photo courtesy of Lisa TE Sonne)

The next morning, Victor woke feeling so good he didn’t want to leave that cushy rectangular dreamland. The comfort of the bed almost became an obsession. Room service seemed in order, and it came with fresh calla lilies and a little silver dome over the butter. Our view trumped most restaurants, and I always enjoy breakfast in a bathrobe.

But then there was still the bed. We had to know more. It turns out there were layers and layers of top materials to take away our tiredness – from titanium (“twice as strong as steel”) inner springs, to Posturepedic’s Euro Pillow top and two layers of “Hypersoft” (a new term to me) Quilt top.

Victor was ready to order a Pierre bed for home. The logic being that if we are going to spend one third of our life sleeping, why not be, dare we say, hyper comfortable? I was all for this luxury. We can’t take the whole hotel home, but maybe the bed.

When I asked the Pierre’s PR director, Nora Walsh, for details about the sheets and covers, she informed me, “The beds are dressed in Frette linens with silk decorative pillows and throw covers that are handmade and imported from Bangalore, India.” Thank you, Taj!  I had enjoyed Taj comforts in the Himalayan Royal Kingdom of Bhutan, but this was my first U.S. immersion in the family of Taj Hotels, Resorts and Palaces.

Many hotels are outsourcing laundry now to save costs, but the Pierre determined that their standards of quality required more. Walsh shared, “Our in-house laundry takes the time to carefully iron and inspect each sheet and pillowcase to ensure that they are immaculately clean and perfectly pressed.”

When I told Victor, we both had a good laugh. That was not going to happen in our home. We’re not even sure where our iron is, but he still kept fantasizing about bringing home “the bed”—ironic, perhaps, since we were in “the city that never sleeps.”

The Next Night…

After joining the wakeful masses and enjoying a glorious day of the creative cacophony of Manhattan, we were actually eager to get back to our pampering pad. We had lived in Manhattan before and knew there were always more great museums and shows and people watching

The doorman made it clear he remembered us, as we twirled through the rotating door. The lobby’s refined ambience and lovely opulence greeted us as we walked past both 20th century paintings and a 10th century statue of Ganesh, with an elephant trunk. I had to take pause. Ganesh is a Hindu god that among other things is renowned for removing obstacles, and this hotel-lobby sculpture had survived over a 1,000 years.

Back at the bank of elevators, with a human operator standing by each one, Khady Gueyesall also remembered us from a previous conversation. When I asked her the most memorable thing that had happened in her elevator, Khady recalled a couple she had taken up to their room. Going back down to get something, the guy asked her to be nice to his beloved. He was hoping that his sweetheart would agree to marry him while they were at the Pierre.

Elevator Operator at The Pierre, A Taj Resort in New York City

Elevator operator, Khady, at The Pierre. (photo courtesy of Lisa TE Sonne)

Khady offered to help him, but exacted an unusual fee: he would have to propose to his potential fiancé in Khady’s elevator. She apparently played cupid well, and was quick to fall to one knee to demonstrate the results for us.

Back in our room, I happily indulged in a bath, followed by a Rain Shower immersion. I wanted a longer pause before we headed from sanctuary to city, so we floated down to the Two E Bar/Lounge , just off the lobby and close to the hotel’s renowned Rotunda with its trompe l’oeil murals.

The drink menu had intriguing offerings created by Sachin Hasan. We were told he was the Hotel’s “cocktail innovator,” so we passed on our usual celebration beverage of choice- champagne. We clinked glasses with a Timeless Grace (rye whiskey, glayva lillet blanc, dried cherry, and orange zest) and a GinGin (gin, ginger liquor, mint, cucumber juice, and lime juice).

We also sated senses with The Pierre Salad (lobster, Hearts of Palm, artichoke with truffle vinaigrette) and Masala Scallops (on parsnip puree, with a coriander sauce vierge and curry leaf pesto). Both were pleasing to our eyes, noses and stomachs.

Snuggling in the corner, we recalled meeting in Manhattan fifteen summers before. On one of our first dates, we strolled through the Park in the evening after listening to Frank McCourt read from his recently published Angela’s Ashes. I remembered being enchanted by fireflies then—so unexpected to me in the midst of one of the densest urban centers in the world. Growing up in California, I enjoyed fireworks from Disneyland, but fireflies don’t live in the west.

Tempting fantasy, Victor and I went out the Pierre’s revolving door and crossed the street in search of fireflies. Holding hands, we walked past the horse drawn carriages, into the Park.

We didn’t have long to wait. First, one light flashed, then another, then another. Instead of falling stars to wish on, flashing lights rose from the ground, already fulfilling our wishes.

We left the Park’s magic carpet and headed straight back up to that wonderful bed.

We had come to New York to attend a wedding. The honeymoon was ours.

Thank you and good night, dear Pierre.

—Lisa TE Sonne for Luxury Travel Mavens

Which New York City Luxury Hotels Do You Love?

We’d like to hear your thoughts about your go-to hotels in the Big Apple. Please comment below.

When we peered out the window from the 36th floor, the long rectangular green of New York’s Central Park looked like a magic flying carpet ready to transport us anywhere. I asked my husband, Victor, “Where would you like to go?” We looked around our suite in the elegantly sumptuous Pierre Hotel – New York City, with Manhattan’s 5th Avenue at our feet, and decided we were quite content where we were.

Our feathered nest was of the highest quality down, in a hotel that breathed legacy guests (Jackie Kennedy, John Paul Getty), as well as Taj Hotel luxury. Already we understood why it was a Five Diamond Hotel (AAA 2012) and ranked as one of the top 100 hotels in the world.

The Pierre, A Taj Resort in New York City

The Pierre, A Taj Hotel in New York City (photo courtesy of Lisa TE Sonne)

Suddenly, the wedding we had eagerly flown across the country to attend seemed like a duty, a sacrifice of time from our cultured cocoon. But of course it wasn’t. We gathered with other guests from five continents at the Marina at 23rd Street to take a ferry across the East River to the Waterfront Restaurant in Long Island City.

The nuptials unfolded like a romantic movie. The young couple said their “I do’s” with the skyline of Manhattan behind them, and smiling and teary friends before them.

Wedding Couple at The Waterfront

The wedding couple at The Waterfront. (photo courtesy of Lisa TE Sonne)

Champagne, appetizers, and live music by pianist Lincoln Mayorga were a sunset interlude. After hours of delicious imbibing, dancing, and laughing, Victor and I were romantically primed to take the ferryboat under the stars, back to our fairytale niche in the Pierre.

It’s hard to imagine the bed being more comfortable. A little note from room service offered to supply alternative pillows of different contents (down, buckwheat, foam, feather) or shapes (body length, neck support). It wasn’t necessary. We were quite content in our high-thread repose.

There was also a lovely card showing the days highs and lows of temperature and the highs and lows of the last trading day on Wall Street. We had had no personal “lows,” so I focused on the card’s quote, “Dreams are only thoughts you didn’t have time to think about during the day.”

And now is the part of the story where we revert to the love scenes from movies of old—and turn off the light after a giddy kiss.

The City That Never Sleeps

Room Service at The Pierre, A Taj Resort in New York City

A delicious room service breakfast at The Pierre, A Taj Hotel in New York City. (photo courtesy of Lisa TE Sonne)

The next morning, Victor woke feeling so good he didn’t want to leave that cushy rectangular dreamland. The comfort of the bed almost became an obsession. Room service seemed in order, and it came with fresh calla lilies and a little silver dome over the butter. Our view trumped most restaurants, and I always enjoy breakfast in a bathrobe.

But then there was still the bed. We had to know more. It turns out there were layers and layers of top materials to take away our tiredness – from titanium (“twice as strong as steel”) inner springs, to Posturepedic’s Euro Pillow top and two layers of “Hypersoft” (a new term to me) Quilt top.

Victor was ready to order a Pierre bed for home. The logic being that if we are going to spend one third of our life sleeping, why not be, dare we say, hyper comfortable? I was all for this luxury. We can’t take the whole hotel home, but maybe the bed.

When I asked the Pierre’s PR director, Nora Walsh, for details about the sheets and covers, she informed me, “The beds are dressed in Frette linens with silk decorative pillows and throw covers that are handmade and imported from Bangalore, India.” Thank you, Taj!  I had enjoyed Taj comforts in the Himalayan Royal Kingdom of Bhutan, but this was my first U.S. immersion in the family of Taj Hotels, Resorts and Palaces.

Many hotels are outsourcing laundry now to save costs, but the Pierre determined that their standards of quality required more. Walsh shared, “Our in-house laundry takes the time to carefully iron and inspect each sheet and pillowcase to ensure that they are immaculately clean and perfectly pressed.”

When I told Victor, we both had a good laugh. That was not going to happen in our home. We’re not even sure where our iron is, but he still kept fantasizing about bringing home “the bed”—ironic, perhaps, since we were in “the city that never sleeps.”

The Next Night…

After joining the wakeful masses and enjoying a glorious day of the creative cacophony of Manhattan, we were actually eager to get back to our pampering pad. We had lived in Manhattan before and knew there were always more great museums and shows and people watching

The doorman made it clear he remembered us, as we twirled through the rotating door. The lobby’s refined ambience and lovely opulence greeted us as we walked past both 20th century paintings and a 10th century statue of Ganesh, with an elephant trunk. I had to take pause. Ganesh is a Hindu god that among other things is renowned for removing obstacles, and this hotel-lobby sculpture had survived over a 1,000 years.

Back at the bank of elevators, with a human operator standing by each one, Khady Gueyesall also remembered us from a previous conversation. When I asked her the most memorable thing that had happened in her elevator, Khady recalled a couple she had taken up to their room. Going back down to get something, the guy asked her to be nice to his beloved. He was hoping that his sweetheart would agree to marry him while they were at the Pierre.

Elevator Operator at The Pierre, A Taj Resort in New York City

Elevator operator, Khady, at The Pierre. (photo courtesy of Lisa TE Sonne)

Khady offered to help him, but exacted an unusual fee: he would have to propose to his potential fiancé in Khady’s elevator. She apparently played cupid well, and was quick to fall to one knee to demonstrate the results for us.

Back in our room, I happily indulged in a bath, followed by a Rain Shower immersion. I wanted a longer pause before we headed from sanctuary to city, so we floated down to the Two E Bar/Lounge , just off the lobby and close to the hotel’s renowned Rotunda with its trompe l’oeil murals.

The drink menu had intriguing offerings created by Sachin Hasan. We were told he was the Hotel’s “cocktail innovator,” so we passed on our usual celebration beverage of choice- champagne. We clinked glasses with a Timeless Grace (rye whiskey, glayva lillet blanc, dried cherry, and orange zest) and a GinGin (gin, ginger liquor, mint, cucumber juice, and lime juice).

We also sated senses with The Pierre Salad (lobster, Hearts of Palm, artichoke with truffle vinaigrette) and Masala Scallops (on parsnip puree, with a coriander sauce vierge and curry leaf pesto). Both were pleasing to our eyes, noses and stomachs.

Snuggling in the corner, we recalled meeting in Manhattan fifteen summers before. On one of our first dates, we strolled through the Park in the evening after listening to Frank McCourt read from his recently published Angela’s Ashes. I remembered being enchanted by fireflies then—so unexpected to me in the midst of one of the densest urban centers in the world. Growing up in California, I enjoyed fireworks from Disneyland, but fireflies don’t live in the west.

Tempting fantasy, Victor and I went out the Pierre’s revolving door and crossed the street in search of fireflies. Holding hands, we walked past the horse drawn carriages, into the Park.

We didn’t have long to wait. First, one light flashed, then another, then another. Instead of falling stars to wish on, flashing lights rose from the ground, already fulfilling our wishes.

We left the Park’s magic carpet and headed straight back up to that wonderful bed.

We had come to New York to attend a wedding. The honeymoon was ours.

Thank you and good night, dear Pierre.

—Lisa TE Sonne for Luxury Travel Mavens

Which New York City Luxury Hotels Do You Love?

We’d like to hear your thoughts about your go-to hotels in the Big Apple. Please comment below.